JLO by Jennifer Lopez adds footwear, watches

Lopez’s Sweetface Fashion Company LLC is adding watches and footwear to its growing assortment, which already includes apparel, lingerie, handbags, swimwear and fragrance.

For watches, Sweetface signed a licensing deal with E. Gluck Corp., which makes lines such as Armitron, Anne Klein New York, AK Anne Klein and Nine West. Footwear is licensed to Titan Industries, which also markets shoe collections for Bebe and Laundry by Shelli Segal.

Shoes and watches will be two very important additions to the JLo lifestyle brand,” said Lopez in an e-mailed statement. “Our watches will be more fashion-driven, incorporating cutting-edge and timeless style. E. Gluck Corp. is a powerful player in the watch industry and I know we both feel very passionate about this new venture. Shoes have been long awaited and will be a great way to extend our vision behind our lifestyle brand. I feel very confident in the partnership we have with Titan to carry out our sensibility with great quality.”

Denise Seegal, chief executive officer of Sweetface Fashion, said, “We wanted to really develop a full lifestyle brand, and these are almost the last two categories that will complete our brand strategy. We have not done hosiery and socks, for instance. The shoes are a very important ingredient in a woman’s wardrobe. Jennifer loves shoes, so doing our shoe license really completes the head-to-toe dressing of our female consumer, and the watch is such a key category to develop.”

The watches will launch in better department and specialty stores in October for holiday selling, and looks are inspired by Lopez’s glittering stage style, with designs honing in on bright colors and crystal adornments.

“I would describe the look as feminine with a touch of street edge,” Sidney Gluck, executive vice president of E. Gluck, said. “It’s sexy and chic. There is some Hollywood-inspired drama and glitziness. It’s romantic and feminine but it makes a statement, too — what you would expect from a line inspired by a superstar.”

Gluck did not give sales projections, but said he expects the watches to be in at least 750 stores initially. He declined to give wholesale prices, but the line will range from $70 to $195 at retail. At those price points, JLo watches will compete with Anne Klein New York and Guess watches.

The shoes are expected to hit better department and specialty stores in February. The collection will retail from $59 for shoes and sandals to $150 for boots. The lion’s share will retail from about $69 to $79, or $25 to $35 wholesale. Those prices would put JLo shoes directly in competition with Nine West.

“It’s obviously young fashion,” said Joe Ouaknine, president of Titan Industries. “You look at Jennifer and how she dresses, and we wanted to take what she likes and interpret it into shoes.

Ouaknine added that the footwear collection could be a $50 million business in two years.

JLo by Jennifer Lopez has licensed categories such as swimwear, girls’ apparel, fragrance, jewelry, outerwear, lingerie, handbags, belts and small leather goods and hats, gloves and scarves.

Both [new] categories will noticeably reflect Jennifer’s vision, and her input as the creative director of brand will be instrumental to the product,” noted Chip Rosen, vice president of licensing and international operations for Sweetface.

Coke, Benetton and Gitano set watch lines

Coca-Cola, Benetton and Gitano are joining the burgeoning fashion watch competition, licensing their brand names for lines to be introduced for the back-to-school market.

Swatch watch USA is manufacturing the Coca-Cola watches under a sublicensing arrangement with Murjani International, which holds the licensing rights for Coca-Cola apparel and accessories.

We chose Swatch to manufacture the watches because it has the same marketing and product philosophy we have with the Coca-Cola apparel line. It understands a quality item at a reasonable price point,” said Hugh Docker, design manager for licensing at Murjani. The watches wholesale for $17.50, and will be available this summer.

Max Imgruth, president of Swatch, admits that Coca-Cola watches will be competition for Swatch brand watches, but says, “Coca-Cola will add to the overall sales potential of the company without overexposing the Swatch brand. There are certain limits with one brand.”

According to Imgruth, the Coca-Cola watches will be displayed at Coca-Cola shops in department stores and at fashion watch counters. Swatch plans a back-to-school marketing and advertising campaign for the Coca-Cola watches similar to that of Swatch Watch.

The Benetton watches are part of an expansion of the accessories area at Benetton. The company also is adding a much more extensive line of belts, bags, hats, scarves, Benetton patches and “B” pins. According to Claire Watson, marketing manager, Benetton will triple its volume in accessories this year.

The watches are manufactured by the Bulova watch company and will be distributed this fall in selected stores in the United States, Canada and Italy. Worldwide distribution will follow this limited introduction. “The watches are of bright fashion colors and reflect the Benetton image,” said an executive at Bulova. The watches will retail for $39.95. The first collection offers 24 styles in four sizes.

Hot Sox is the primary manufacturer of Benetton accessories. According to Gary Wolkowitz, president of Hot Sox, the firm will do over $2 million with Benetton accessories this year. It offers a 30-piece collection of accessories that retail between $6 and $25.

The accessories were in the Benetton spring catalog, and did $25,000 in sales, according to Annick Cooper, director of the U.S. catalog division. For the winter catalog, Benetton is adding the watchesand expanding its assortment of accessories. “For our winter catalog we could do as much as $100,000 in accessories. They are the right price point and many of our customers see the merchandise together in an outfit and purchase the entire outfit,” said Cooper.

The Gitano watches are being introduced this fall through a licensing arrangement with AKS Timewear. Haim Dabah, executive vice president of Gitano, predicts the company will do approximately $4 million with the watches the first year.

The company also is expanding its assortment of accessories for fall, adding belts, shoes and a much wider selection of scarves and gloves. “All our accessories are licensed. We receive a 5 percent royalty fee, plus a 3 percent advertising fee. This year, our accessories should do between $15 million and $20 million,” said Dabah.

The watches wholesale from $12.50 to $17.50, and the distribution will mirror the Gitano sportswearline, which is sold primarily through mass merchandisers.

The watches will be displayed in the fashion watch areas of the stores. In some stores, the accessories will be displayed with the Gitano sportswear, but Dabah believes the accessories sell better if they are positioned in the stores in their parent classifications.

“I think there is a place for Gitano watches in the market. They are substantially lower priced than most of the other fashion watch lines, and there is a Gitano customer who will buy them to coordinate with the Gitano sportswear,” said Dabah.

It’s always the time to collect timepieces

Unlike many antique dealers in the city, who sell timepieces that have great esthetic appeal but no longer work, Mr. Thornton offers only clocks that “are running and ticking and keeping time.” All come with a guarantee, and if something goes wrong he can restore and repair both clock movements and cases.

Like many of his fellow dealers, Mr. Thornton is a passionate collector of clocks, which he said have personalities “just like people.” In his store are three examples with which he said he will never part. One is a rare regulator (a weight-driven clock that does not strike) made in the United States about 1900 and bought in Petworth, England.

Another favorite is a lantern type, a weight-driven French clock with a large exposed enamel dial surrounded by brass fretwork illustrations of a rooster and two ducks. Made around 1740, this clock has only one hand “because,” as Mr. Thornton said, “people weren’t all that fussy about being totally time accurate in those days.”

The third not-for-sale collector’s item in the store is a large three- weight Vienna regulator, made in Austria about 1860 and set in a case with exceptional carving. This rare clock has an unusual strike pattern, and its ornate brass weights and pendulum are hand- engraved with scroll patterns.

Mr. Thornton’s sale inventory ranges from tall grandfather clocks suitable for living rooms to tiny, highly decorated boudoir pieces. In between are numerous clocks – made in Europe, England and the United States – which can be used as decorative collectibles on mantels or tables.

An example of the latter is an American mahogany veneer, eight-day strike piece with what is known in the trade as an O.G., or S-curved case design. Made in 1865 and priced at $425, it is decorated with a gold and blue reverse painting depicting an eagle and 13 stars (symbolizing the 13 original American states).

Collectors can find timepieces of interest in other antique shops scattered throughout Toronto. Ronald Windebank Antiques Ltd., at 21 Avenue Rd., offers a handsome $1,295 French Empire-style clock made about 1830 of yellow Sienna marble with a black casing and a bronze figure of time.

Michel Taschereau Antiques, at 176 Cumberland St., is selling a charming little rococo 1830s French clock made by Bourquin Le Jeune. Decorated with golden swirls from which spring five tiny porcelain flowers, complete with stamens, this boudoir piece is priced at $550.

Collectors who are more interested in wearable timepieces should go to such dealers as Louis Wine Ltd., 848-A Yonge St., or Ronald Fraleigh Jewellers Gemologists, 1977 Yonge St. Both are members of the Canadian Antique Dealers Association, and offer impressive and intriguing older watches for both men and women.

Fraleigh’s current stock includes a $475 ball watch pendant made of sterling silver and enamelled in yellow with a matching chain. The store also offers a $3,250 pendant watch made in the early 1900s by Patek Philippe, one of the premiere Swiss watchmakers. This watch has an open face of white porcelain with black Roman numerals; its back is enamelled in powder blue with a rose-cut diamond in the centre.

Mr. Fraleigh said the pocket- watch business in Toronto is very slow. “In the early 1980s, we sold more men’s pocket watches than we do now because fewer people are wearing vests today,” he said. “The hot items right now are wrist watches from the twenties, thirties and forties.” Suchwatches, he said, are “the in thing in Europe and the U.S. but are much rarer in Canada.”

Ronald Dupuis, director of Sotheby’s jewelry department, said watches – particularly from the 1930s – have nearly doubled in value at auction in the last few years. Many people, he said, are buying new battery-run, quartz- movement watches. As a consequence, older mechanical watches are being sold off and collectors are snapping them up.

Allan Cohen, proprietor of Grant’s Jewellers and Pawn Brokers, 135 Church St., is a respected collector and dealer who owns a rare and expensive Mickey Mouse watch – issued in 1929 – complete with its original box. Summing up why he and others get hooked on collecting antique timepieces, Mr. Cohen said it is a reaction to the technology that today produces time-perfect, micro-circuit modules and quartz watches.

“The older pieces didn’t keep perfect time,” he said, “but they had a unique personality and a hand-made beauty which just isn’t a characteristic of today’s mass- produced products.”

Anne Klein II: heading for a big time

E. Gluck Corp., the fashion watch firm that holds the license for Anne Klein watches, expects to generate sales of about $15 million in 1992 with its new Anne Klein II watch line.

Mark Odenheimer, vice president of the Anne Klein and Anne Klein II divisions, said the new line has the potential to rack up much greater sales than Gluck’s established Anne Klein watches.

Gluck has been producing Anne Klein watches for nearly 18 years, and is a leading name in the bracelet watch category for department stores. According to industry sources, the Anne Klein watch volume is about $30 million.

Gluck, based in Long Island City, N.Y., has an annual volume of almost $150 million.

The Anne Klein II watch line is being launched in January market for spring delivery and will retail for about half the price of the Anne Klein line.

Price is a big factor in today’s economy,” said Odenheimer. “With Anne Klein II, we were able to come with lower prices without jeopardizing the Anne Klein business for us or the stores.

The firm expects to reach some retailers that it has not been able to sell with the higher-price Anne Klein line. Also, in many department stores, the Anne Klein watches are sold in leased fine jewelrydepartments. Odenheimer said the new line will be merchandised in the bridge fashion watch area.

He said since that the Anne Klein II apparel is more widely distributed than Anne Klein, there is already a broad consumer audience that will recognize the name.

The $55 to $85 retail price range Anne Klein II is targeting is already a crowded market. The top players are Guess, Swatch Watch and Fossil, each of which do more than $50 million at wholesale.

Odenheimer said Anne Klein II is taking a different direction.

A lot of fashion watches at these prices connote trendy, young and unisex. Few people think of classic at these price points. We felt there was a gap in the fashion watch market for femininewatches at these prices.”

“Another positive thing,” Odenheimer pointed out, “is that in these tough economic times, fashionwatches are seeing a lot of action at retail and sales are ahead of last year.”

The Anne Klein II watch line, wholesaling from about $27 to $42, features all strap watches and about 150 different styles. The established Anne Klein line offers primarily bracelet watches at $95 to $195 retail. Both lines are made of Swiss and Japanese movements and other components from around the world.

The new line has been in the works for nearly a year. The Anne Klein II design studio designed some styles and had input on the entire collection.

Odenheimer said a lot of attention was paid to details. Several bands feature padding, quilting and unique stitching detail, and the crowns and hands also come in different styles. A lot of cases hage different finishes, such as brushed and matte metal, and many are two-tone metals. In the sport group, some styles have calendars and remote sweeps. One group features cut color crystals, which is a novel idea in the watch market.

Those wacky watches: makers are riding the cartoon train to big sales this year

Consumers of all ages are discovering their inner children with character watches and watch manufacturers intend to capitalize on that trend in 1998.

Pick your favorite — Snoopy, Garfield, Pooh, Marvin the Martian — and there’s a watch for it.

At Timex, Disney’s Winnie the Pooh is it. The cuddly yellow bear is making cash stick to the firm’s bottom line like bees to a honey pot.

Sean Gildea, manager of youth and character marketing, said that as a result of high sales, the firm is doubling its sku count for the Winnie the Pooh business in April and is introducing higher-priced items.

“Winnie the Pooh has been the hottest license for the past two years, and we see the trend continuing,” he said.

For spring, the firm is introducing unique figures incorporating a 3-D effect, in which the character’s face is printed on the crystal and its body is on the face.

Other new additions include date features and the Indiglo glow-in-the-dark feature, as well as expansion bands, bimetal bracelets, pocket watches and melody watches.

Timex is also working on the 100 Acre Pooh line, to be introduced in the fourth quarter this year. It will be higher-priced and more fashionably designed than the Disney Pooh line, which is aimed at the mass market.

The Disney Pooh line retails for $25 to $55. The 100 Acre Pooh is tentatively scheduled to be $35 to $65 at retail. There is also a Classic Pooh line for department stores, retailing for $35 to $75.

Ken Genender, owner of Genender International, said his firm is launching its Kermit collection, which he calls “adult collectibles,” for March market, to hit stores this summer and fall.

The fuzzy frog character was acquired through a licensing deal with Jim Henson Productions, as were others, including Miss Piggy, Animal, Fozzie Bear, Gonzo and Rizzo, in women’s and men’swatches.

The firm is also developing a Kermit golf theme collection for March market, tentatively called “Green on Green.”

The line will include a range of styles from leather to metal bracelets and will retail for $35 to $65. Genender hopes it will appeal to “the kid in all of us.”

Beyond character watches, the firm’s unisex Perry Ellis collection, pocket watches are expected to continue growing in popularity, in addition to uniquely shaped cases in men’s and women’s, such as horseshoe-shaped tanks, ovals and the “TV shape,” a rectangle with rounded corners.

Genender believes silver-colored dials and light copper-colored dials will also be strong. And he expressed interest in expanding the women’s collections, as sales have been better than originally anticipated. The line was launched in December.

Fossil is also talking about ‘toons.

Roshnie Muscarello, the firm’s licensing manager, said it is coming out with a Fossil Blue version, water resistant to 165 feet, for its Mickey Mouse line. Fossil Blue accounts for the company’s top-five-selling watches overall.

To highlight the aquarian nature of the watch, Mickey will be floating around on one of the watch hands, wearing diving gear.

The watch is limited to 5,000 pieces. There is also a 23-karat gold version, which will be offered in 1,000 pieces. Muscarello said limited edition watches are doing well for the firm right now.

“People love it when you tie into a movie, TV show or character,” he said.

Fossil is also coming out with a Dilbert watch for May, a Snoopy watch for June and a Pink Panther watch for August.

Character watches usually retail from $70 to $85, he said, with the special limited-edition gold styles retailing at $120.

At Armitron, Jerry Dikowitz, vice president of advertising and marketing, said his firm has had its licensed Looney Tunes character watches for about 15 years.

“It has been a building situation every year,” he said.

Rotating discs, which show various cartoon elements floating around the watch face, have been a hot category, he said. New designs include a Snoopy with a Woodstock floating on a clear disk and a Garfield with Odie doing a similar feat.

The firm has new styles with plastic “jelly” cases and straps and also metal cases and leather straps and is also including 3-D designs and musical elements in the watches.

Swatch is carrying on with a character tradition — not with licensed characters, but with exclusivecartoon characters designed by cartoonists.

Carlo Giordanetti, vice president of marketing and design director for Swatch U.S., said two of these plastic, cartoon-strip watches will hit stores this February at $40. One features a comic strip about time in chaos, called “Furto” and the other features a cartoon strip about the character called the “Queen of Time.”

“Queen of Time” is designed by Dutch cartoonist Joost Swarte, and “Furto,” which means “steal” in Spanish, is by Jose Munoz.

Swatch has been commissioning these character watches since 1991.

“We always have enormous success when we bring a little story with characters in watches,” he said. “I guess people relate to them as a little friend or a story that they carry around.”